Eating Pinkerton’s Barbecue for the first time made me stop and ask myself why I wasted time eating anything less than great barbecue in the past.
Then I remembered how much the barbecue at Pinkerton’s cost me. It’s some of the best barbecue I’ve had in Houston, but ordering by the pound was pricey — at least the brisket was. According to Pinkerton’s website, the price has actually been raised due to the national beef shortage and unprecedented price increases.
However, it’s less expensive if you just order a sandwich. Sandwiches are $10-$13.
I ordered online for take-out. I got the sliced prime brisket, glazed pork ribs, a side of jambalaya and a side of South Texas beans. Any extras, such as pickles or onions, cost $0.50 each.
When I arrived at the restaurant the bag with my name on it had just been placed on the pick-up table. As I went to grab it, a worker stopped me to ask how many barbecue sauces I wanted. When I just asked for one, he was so surprised and glad that I hadn’t asked for “handfuls” like everyone else, so he gave me extra. I thought this was really nice, especially later when I realized why other people ask for so many.
Four slices of brisket were placed on top of six ribs in the container. The slices of brisket were thick and fatty around the edges. The meat was so tender that it fell apart in my mouth. But what made it even better was the barbecue sauce.
I don’t tend to eat brisket with sauce because I personally like using mustard. Being in Texas, mustard-based sauces are few and far between. So when I realized Pinkerton’s was a mustard-based sauce I was excited. It’s mustard and vinegar flavor was my favorite part of the already great meat.
The pork ribs were slathered in glaze and the meat just about fell off the bone when I picked it up. The glaze mixed with the fatty meat was delicious and messy. Even the parts of meat that were leaner were still tender.
The side of jambalaya was rice mixed with a few vegetables and bits of sausage. It only had a slight Cajun flare, but the hearty rice still impressed me.
But my favorite side was the beans. The dish was made up of classic pinto beans with a slice of bacon for flavor and chopped jalapeno peppers. I’m sure there were other additions to the beans, but I was so distracted by the pepper that I didn’t much care what else was in the beans.
The peppers gave the beans a sweet side, while not really adding anything to the dish in terms of spiciness.
The beans were my favorite side, and one that I’m sure I’ll crave often.
Address: 1504 Airline Dr.
Hours: 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Wednesday-Thursday and Sunday, 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Friday-Saturday
Pricing: $16-$26 by the pound
Healthy options: No
Star of the show: Glazed pork ribs