I made a rookie mistake while dining at Superica, the Tex-Mex restaurant in the Heights.
I ate way too many chips dipped in salsa and guacamole before my meal was brought to the table. I can usually resist, but while the chips weren’t anything special, I particularly enjoyed the salsa, which was sweeter and had just a little kick to it.
Most restaurant salsas seem to use mostly red tomatoes. I suspect that Superica mixes in green tomatoes, which I generally like better in salsa.
This recent visit to Superica wasn’t my first, but it was my first visit since COVID-19 turned to world upside down — or should I say closed most of the world? Superica temporarily closed before opening back up with to-go services. Now the patio and inside dining area are open, with safety guidelines in place, but the restaurant is still offering the to-go services.
The patio was busy, but people were distanced. My party of two decided to eat inside, where there was only one other table occupied, and it was on the other side of the restaurant. The staff was masked and gloved and made eating out during an uncertain time comfortable.
While it was a little after lunch time, the brunch menu was still available along with the all-day menu. Since I hadn’t tried Superica’s brunch menu, I ordered the chorizo, potato and eggs.
The plate set before me was half refried beans, half scrambled eggs mixed with chorizo, potatoes and slices of tomato topped with cilantro.
Using flour tortillas, I made breakfast tacos with the egg mix and beans. The spices from the chorizo came through, though I wished it was more prominent rather than mild. And I liked that the potatoes were mixed in, but I could have used more.
Even wishing for a little more of each of those, I loved the soft smoky taste the eggs acquired with the chorizo, which probably comes from paprika in the chorizo.
My tablemate ordered just a hot cake, which came with a dollop of whipped butter and buttermilk syrup. The pancake was by far the largest, fluffiest pancake I’ve seen served at a restaurant as it covered a regular-sized plate and was a little less than half an inch thick.
I tried the pancake with the syrup as well and would definitely order it for myself in the future.
Previously, I’ve had Superica’s chicken fajitas and flautas. The fajitas I’ve order more than once, but the flautas were a little too messy with a little more shell than I wanted.
But the most important thing you should know about Superica is that while the letters beneath its name say Tex-Mex, I’ve often told people to expect more “Tex” than “Mex.”
The menu is filled with Tex-Mex staples, but my experience with the dishes is its Tex-Mex is even more Americanized. Perhaps we can call it Urban Tex-Mex.
If you go in expecting a more traditional Tex-Mex, you might be disappointed. The food is Superica’s own take on the cuisine, which I enjoyed for what it was.
Address: 1801 N. Shepherd Dr.
Hours: 4:30–8:30 p.m. Monday–Thursday, 11:30 a.m.–9 p.m. Friday–Saturday, 11:30 a.m.–8:30 p.m. Sunday
Pricing: $11-$25 for brunch, $9-$38 for lunch/dinner
Healthy options: No
Star of the show: Chorizo, potato and eggs