It was just a little chilly outside, but when the door opened at Truth BBQ, the smell of cooked meats filtered outside and I felt warm.
But I wasn’t inside the restaurant quite yet. Only 15 minutes after Truth’s 11 a.m. opening, the line was out the door. Once inside, the line still weaved around a row of boxes of ice filled with bottled sodas and various beers.
Brisket, turkey, pork ribs, pulled pork and sausage were the meat options. I couldn’t make up my mind, so I made my lunch companion get the two-meat plate of brisket and turkey while I got the pork ribs and sausage. Then we split up the meat.
On the side I chose baked beans and coleslaw.
At the end of the line I was asked if I wanted a slice of bread, onions and pickles. If you go and want none of those to go with your meal, I still recommend at least trying the pickles. They are a cross between cucumber and pickle and must have been marinated in some special juice, because they don’t taste like any pickles I’ve had before. But they’re good.
The seating space was large, and even with a continuous line out the door well into the lunch hour, there was always enough seating.
The creamy dressing was mild on the crunchy strings of vegetables in the coleslaw, and made an easy-to-do-wrong side enjoyable. But my favorite of the two sides was the baked beans.
Mixed with small chunks of pork and sliced onions, the warm beans were sweet and savory all at the same time. I finished the small paper boat of the baked beans before I even moved on to the meat.
While the turkey, sliced about a centimeter wide, was good, I think it makes a better sandwich option than a two-meat plate option.
The brisket, however, was like a small slab of fatty meat. Smoky and tender, I didn’t add any sauce to the brisket. The bark was blackened and packed a nice flavor that made the meat even tastier.
The sliced sausage was on the subtle side, with just a light peppery spice mixed with the smokiness that is typical at most barbecue joints.
What really knocked me off my feet were the two pork ribs resting on my tray. Sliding right off the bone, the tender meat had a hint of bacon-y flavor, but just about melted in my mouth with different spices. To be honest, while my lunch companion and I were splitting the meat, I didn’t actually share the pork ribs.
If you’re looking for beef ribs, Truth has them on Saturdays only.
Truth may be open from 11 a.m.–5 p.m., but I hear they sell out before closing time and the line can take an hour to get through. So it’s best to arrive early.
Address: 110 S. Heights Blvd.
Hours: 11 a.m.–5 p.m. Tuesday–Sunday
Healthy options: No
Star of the show: Pork ribs